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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.